‘Toilet?” replies the waitress, with a concerned look, “You’ll have to go across the road.” We can’t quite believe it: we are in the most popular bar in town and there is no means to relieve oneself before enjoying another chilled bottle of ‘Star’ or ‘Club’ (the local lagers of choice). We were in Mpraeso,… Continue reading Relinquishing self-consciousness on a Ghanaian night out.
“Do me a favour, go get your mates” mumbled our saviour to his young assistant. Else a daunting, dark hike home lay ahead of we three gringos.
This time last year I was scouring the January flight sales to escape the wintry blues. This year, I’m escaping into my memory bank instead: I learnt some unexpected things about Venice on our brief, but wonderful, trip: I discovered that from the top of the iconic Campanella tower you can barely see any canals… Continue reading Venetian Varietals: Memories of Venice
On my previous trip to Mendoza, I learnt an awful lot about the wine they produce there. I was learning by submersion; one vat of wine at a time! This time around, I branched out considerably and began to discover so much more about the quirks of local life. Here are just a few teasers… Continue reading Marvellous Mendoza: a whole world beyond wine
Before I begin, a word of warning. Should you wish to travel, as we did, from Puerto Natales, Chile, to El Calafate, Argentina, the bus is simple and comfortable enough: six hours, approx £12. What is not advised however, is to lose, as Leo did, the PDI receipt he had received upon entering Chile. The… Continue reading Ice Ice Baby: Exploring El Calafate
As two people more accustomed to enjoying a milanesa, copa de vino and a siesta than to any hard exercise, we took it upon ourselves to attempt the totally self-guided 4-5 day "W Trek" through Chile's Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. It seemed like "Towers of Pain" was an apt name for what lay ahead!… Continue reading Torres del Paine; Towers of Pain
Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales: Two relatively unremarkable cities in themselves, popular largely for being gateways to the beautiful Patagonian nature beyond. But we still managed to enjoy a variety of offerings: cultural, gastronomical and down right silly. Our first taste of Chile, on our journey northwards from Ushuaia, was a ferry across the Magellan Strait.… Continue reading A Quick Tour of Chilean Patagonia
Sun, sea and snow-capped mountains. A magical trio that you quite literally have to go to the end of the earth to find adjacent to one another. As we disembarked our plane in Ushuaia, into the modest ski-chalet style airport, I was surprised and delighted to find that it was gently snowing. Everyone was wrapped… Continue reading The End of the World is Nigh
Despite spending the longest time in this city on my last trip, almost even committing to calling it home, I experienced another side to BA this time around. The Bargain Hunters Buenos Aires. Having seen all the tourist hotspots before, and driven by promos and the constant search for free entertainment, we sampled some of… Continue reading Free Fun in Buenos Aires
Having just recently booked flights for my long-awaited return to South America (they say third time's a charm!) I began taking a trip down memory lane: Famed for Christ the Redeemer, the Olympics, Copacabana beach and bikini waxes therein, Rio de Janeiro is the city that effortlessly shifts from golden sands to verdant hills, from… Continue reading Street-life: the rhythms of Rio