Our Sunset Saviour: Dial-a-ride in the Colombian Mountains

“Do me a favour, go get your mates” mumbled our saviour to his young assistant. Else a daunting, dark hike home lay ahead of we three gringos.


Marvellous Mendoza: a whole world beyond wine

On my previous trip to Mendoza, I learnt an awful lot about the wine they produce there. I was learning by submersion; one vat of wine at a time! This time around, I branched out considerably and began to discover so much more about the quirks of local life. Here are just a few teasers… Continue reading Marvellous Mendoza: a whole world beyond wine

Ice Ice Baby: Exploring El Calafate

Before I begin, a word of warning. Should you wish to travel, as we did, from Puerto Natales, Chile, to El Calafate, Argentina, the bus is simple and comfortable enough: six hours, approx £12. What is not advised however, is to lose, as Leo did, the PDI receipt he had received upon entering Chile. The… Continue reading Ice Ice Baby: Exploring El Calafate

Torres del Paine; Towers of Pain

As two people more accustomed to enjoying a milanesa, copa de vino and a siesta than to any hard exercise, we took it upon ourselves to attempt the totally self-guided 4-5 day "W Trek" through Chile's Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. It seemed like "Towers of Pain" was an apt name for what lay ahead!… Continue reading Torres del Paine; Towers of Pain

A Quick Tour of Chilean Patagonia

Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales: Two relatively unremarkable cities in themselves, popular largely for being gateways to the beautiful Patagonian nature beyond. But we still managed to enjoy a variety of offerings: cultural, gastronomical and down right silly. Our first taste of Chile, on our journey northwards from Ushuaia, was a ferry across the Magellan Strait.… Continue reading A Quick Tour of Chilean Patagonia

The End of the World is Nigh

Sun, sea and snow-capped mountains. A magical trio that you quite literally have to go to the end of the earth to find adjacent to one another. As we disembarked our plane in Ushuaia, into the modest ski-chalet style airport, I was surprised and delighted to find that it was gently snowing. Everyone was wrapped… Continue reading The End of the World is Nigh

Free Fun in Buenos Aires

Despite spending the longest time in this city on my last trip, almost even committing to calling it home, I experienced another side to BA this time around. The Bargain Hunters Buenos Aires. Having seen all the tourist hotspots before, and driven by promos and the constant search for free entertainment, we sampled some of… Continue reading Free Fun in Buenos Aires

Street-life: the rhythms of Rio

Having just recently booked flights for my long-awaited return to South America (they say third time's a charm!) I began taking a trip down memory lane: Famed for Christ the Redeemer, the Olympics, Copacabana beach and bikini waxes therein, Rio de Janeiro is the city that effortlessly shifts from golden sands to verdant hills, from… Continue reading Street-life: the rhythms of Rio

Week twenty two: the end of a Latino era

Knowing that I have to resume real life all too soon, I have been thoroughly enjoying taking a holiday from my own brain. You know how the story goes: Girl meets boy; girl makes friends; girl makes everyone make her decisions for her. Aptly, in a city named after a river, I've been blissfully floating… Continue reading Week twenty two: the end of a Latino era

Week twenty one: clouds and caipirinhas

My first week in Rio has been exciting and full of delights, but I have been plagued by feeling utterly useless! After more than five months being an independent, semi-Spanish-speaking survivor, I have regressed to being a totally useless and helpless gringa. I didn't realise quite how much basic Spanish I knew, until I realised… Continue reading Week twenty one: clouds and caipirinhas